Je bekijkt de reis...
Reisverslag More sun and we passed Burgos
21 mei 2016
More sun and we passed Burgos
While having dinner in Sahagun, on the Major Square, Jan ordered a "Menu del Dia", because he was hungry and me a Pizza, because I love them...we enjoyed watching lots of children playing, riding their bikes, practicing soccer moves and skipping etc. their parents watch them from their table in one of the bars or just talk to other parents. It feels all so relaxed and easy, such a great set-up, such a good idea. Dinner is late, between 8 and 9 for most Spanish families, so early evening is free for socializing. Nice. And wonderful entertainment for tired tourists, hehe! So far we have witnessed this custom in lots of places all around Spain.
The next day 17 May, must have been one of the highlights of this trip. We went onto the path that I remember most clearly from last Santiago trip, the old Pilgrims Path, a gravel path that was redone recently (with money from the European Union) on a former Roman Road. This path is one straight line, with wheat growing on both sides. It is on a highland and so the views are wide, it has a special feeling about it which I can't explain, but it is such a nice stretch. In my memory it was much longer than 12km, I thought it lasted a whole day....but it didn't. Only an hour or so. In 2014 the fields were all yellow, smelling sweet of nearly ready to harvest grain, and very warm....now the fields are green, no smell, the sun was shining and the wind a bit cold, very different. Also, going against the stream of pilgrims meant the we were constantly greeting people: Buen Camino, Bon Camino, Ola, Hallo, or when we got tired, just Hi. All those interactions did make me feel cheerful and I felt like I had a permanent smile plastered onto my face! It was great fun! At one point we even met "our son in law, John" :-))!! He (the lookalike) just pulled a face and pointed with both hands and both pointer fingers in the opposite direction! Same humor!!! I went over to Jan and said: did you see that guy? Jan said: Yes!! I saw John!!! We had a great laugh over that!
We decided to make it a short day and stopped in Carrion de los Condos at the camping ground. Jan had been dying to go camping again especially since he has been dragging around most of the camping gear for the last 1000km for nothing. The campground had just opened that day, since it had been flooded by the river ( remember all the rain we had the last 2 weeks) that was right next to it. We had to have a good look around for a dryish spot, and of course found one. We went for a wander into the little town, did some shopping for breakfast and had a very reasonable meal at the campground restaurant. We slept well, but the morning was very, very cold.... Still no summer really...
18 May another lovely day! We remembered both a place called Castrojeriz and the pleasant campground there, so that was our goal for the day. We went through more green fields, small lovely towns with each one or more old buildings...there usually is a Pilgrims church in most of those places, with a portal for pilgrims to sleep under. Very pitoresque, but also gives you such a sense of oldness, history, religion....very impressive to be surrounded by that.
We arrived early, had lunch and put up the tent. And then...it was time to sunbathe for me! Jan had his Siesta. I have bought a bikini (not worn one of those for 20 years) and loved just laying there and feeling warm, great! Another highlight!
19 May. The early morning was freezing cold, we think just above zero. We froze while eating our Bircher muesli and packing up and had to get on to our bikes to get warm. The first little hills arrived, after our long flat part of our Camino. Not too strenuous yet, just gentle hills. Only one noteworthy thing happened this day, we were attacked by 3 big dogs! They were defending their territory, and as it was, they were in the right because we had taken a wrong, private road...but still...it was very scary! My "dazer" works very well, we discovered. The dogs heard the high pitched tone, didn't like it and would turn away. But since there were 3 of them, they kept coming back from different angles...we tried to back out, while keeping them at bay. Then the owner came out, calmed the dogs and explained to us where our track was. Phew, happy to get away from that little incident!
While riding we regularly recognize places, sometimes a cafe or bar, where we have sat before, or an old building that stands out, or a place where we have taken a photo before. Nice! We did 70km and ended in Burgos. There we camped again, in almost the same spot, and enjoyed the sun before heading into town to have another look at the cathedral. It was good, but we were far less impressed than the first time. Understandably so, the surprise was not there anymore. Burgos is still a beautiful colorful city, with an amazing city entrance and magnificent cathedral and lots more no doubt. But we will go on tomorrow.
20 May will be another sunny day! And maybe the last one, since more rain is coming our way :-( . Good reason to not bike for too long and relax in the sun which we do right now, :-), at San Juan de Ortega. We have put up our tent in front of the very popular Albergue, which is right next to the beautiful Monastery where San Juan in 1150 started to help sick or old Pilgrims by forgiving them their sins. These pilgrims (sinners) were then no longer obligated to finish their walk to Santiago and could die in peace, knowing that they would go to heaven after all. Juan also built bridges over the rivers where the going was hard and started a hospital and Albergue. A little community started to grow around him and his good works, and when he died he was declared a saint. His body is in a casque inside the church. And a sculpture of him in death is laying on top. He must have been a very good person. He also became a Saint of sick children and of women who could not conceive. They came to pray here and ask San Juan to intervene and ask the help of God. That was the old way of solving problems eh?!....
They hand out free garlic soup here, the rest of our dinner is already bought and mostly tinned beans and fruit salad. Every day is different...no routines!
Our odometer reads 1999 km :-))
Due to a very slow internet connection, this update comes without photos.... We will send them later.
Foto's bij verslag (4)
21 mei 2016 22:24 | Door: hans reversma
IHè stoere bikers....fijn om jullie verslag te volgen en te lezen dat het jullie goed gaat ondanks het tegenvallende weer. Mooie belevenissen en die sfeer langs oude dorpen en steden heb je mooi beschreven Marleen. Hier in Dolores boeren we gewoon voort op onze finca met have en goed. Blij dat de dagen warmer worden. Wat gaan jullie snel trouwens....je laatste appje meldde Logrono en dat is al heel noordelijke. Ik zie jullie zo als een speer naar Frankrijk rijden! Veel genoegen onderweg en liefs van ons.
Hans en Willemijn.
21 mei 2016 23:15 | Door: Willemijn
Hi fooks, wat een mooie beschrijving van jullie reis weer, genieten, maar ook hopen, dat die regen weg blijft. Zijn jullie al eens in Sante Domingo geweest? Ligt ook op jullie route. Klein dorp met een kerk waarin achter bovenin een kippenhok is gebouwd, waarin een kip en een haan. Je kunt ze ook echt horen en zien in de kerk. Ik vertel je later wel een keer waarom. Heeft ook met de camino te maken.
Grappig he om nu de route andersom te rijden?
Hier prachtig weer, vanavond om 21 uur was het nog 22*c. De margrieten zijn ver uitgebloeid, dus minder geel in de tuin, maar nu komen andere bloemen en planten aan de beurt. Blauw, rose en wit, alle oleanders bloeien nu, van rood, rose in diverse tinten, zalm en wit, prachtig!
Enfin, goed om hier te zijn...mis Nederland helemaal niet!
LiefsXXXXXXXXX EN GOEIE REIS
22 mei 2016 01:56 | Door: Anja
Hey lieverds, weer fijn om te lezen dat jullie goed gaan. Nog maar 3 ( duizend ) te gaan!!!!!
22 mei 2016 17:47 | Door: Heide
Ha Marleen en Jan,
wat geweldig jullie beschrijvingen van deze prachtige reis. We genieten er ontzettend van en verheugen ons al weer op jullie volgende bericht. Marleen, jou berichten zijn altijd zo lekker uitgebreid en gedetaileerd- als ik het niet wist dan zou ik nu toch zeker vermoeden dat je een zusje bent van..
Lex en ik hebben ook een prachtige week in de Dolomieten achter de rug. Samen met Peter en Patricia van Topo actief hebben we 1 week lang in Molveno gelogeert en hebben verschillende wandelingen gelopen en beschreven. We hadden geweldig wandelweer met uitzondering van donderdag, toen de hele dag regen dus pauze. Vrijdag hebben Patricia en ik nog heerlijk op de pas di San Ciacomo in de sneeuw gelopen, geweldig.
Ik hoop, dat jullie niet te veel regen krijgen en lekker door kunnen fietsen.
Veel liefs Heide en lex
22 mei 2016 22:20 | Door: Ingeborg Westerbeek
Hallo Jan en Marleen,
Fijn, dat het nog steeds goed met jullie gaat. Geniet van de zon als die er is. Jullie hebben nog heel wat kilometers te gaan. Succes!
24 mei 2016 20:13 | Door: klaas en ineke
Hoi Jan en Marleen,
Leuk je verslag te lezen. Het brengt bij ons ook allles weer boven. Het was een heel aparte ervaring.
Wij gaan momenteel richting Parijs en komen zo af en toe ook Santiagogangers tegen.
Wij hebben het hier ook nog koud en nat, maar morgen schijnt het beter te worden.
Tot ziens en horens, Klaas en Ineke